Here's the second excerpt from my 1989 Gault-Millau guide, The Best of France. This could be one of those blog entries that no one cares about but me, but I really do find this book super comforting and inspiring towards the end of the school year!! It's very well written, and always seems to me to be a perfect example of the French inclination to make anything that's not totally prosaic, like a washing machine, a little better than it needs to be.
Anyway, this one is about a chef named Joel Robuchon (up top) who is perhaps the greatest living cook at the moment. He was awarded "Chef of the Century" in 1989, and, despite numerous threats to retire for good, still runs his restaurant in Paris as well as spinoffs elsewhere (including Las Vegas!).
I've never eaten his food, although I tried once when Em & I were in France for our honeymoon. The hostess on the phone was polite, but was definitely somewhat amused when I inquired as to whether there were any reservations available in the next month!
I also once tried to cook a recipe from a wonderful cookbook of his, and ended up with the best sauce that I've ever made - a fennel cream sauce - but a failed meal due to my complete inability to cook monkfish. I always feel like giving his recipes another shot, but I think that it's like trying to read a book about football and then play quarterback for the Dallas Cowboys.
So here's what Gault-Millau says about Joel Robuchon:
How is it that the most gifted chef in France manages not to be tainted by the mountainous praise heaped upon him by the press? Simply because deep down, Robuchon, who is far less timid than reputation has it, has remained a craftsman whose tour of duty isn't over.
I love that so much!!!
And the food:
Other wonderful creations appearing on the menu from time to time include lobster with coriander and baby vegetables, rack of lamb under a light coating of crumbled truffles, and a heavenly puree of potatoes with olive oil and creme florette that is Robuchon's passport to paradise.
I think that it's the potatoes that got him the award - he wrote a whole book about them! And finally:
If you could treat yourself to only one sensational meal in Paris this century, come here.
I tried!!!
2 comments:
I still have cravings for those potatoes. I've never even tried them, but I've heard about them for so many years it's like having a craving for a taste you experienced in a past life.
Ah well, maybe we'll make it for our 20th anniversary. : )
Em
That sounds great!! I'll call today for reservations :)
Post a Comment